After living in Perugia for nearly a month, I have discovered that it is a fool’s endeavor to discover every part of the city. As much as I may want to try every osteria, wander through every street, admire every arch, and enjoy every kebab piadina that the city has to offer, it’s simply unrealistic. But that doesn’t mean that I can’t learn a lot about the city, find the best of what it has to offer, and discover a few hidden gems.
Where to Eat
I love to eat. When I die, my heaven will be an authentic Italian restaurant. One of my goals before coming to Italy was to eat as much good food as possible and to find the best restaurant in Perugia. But now that I’m here, I’ve encountered two major problems: there’s no way I can try everything and there’s no way I can choose a favorite. In my 28 days in Italy so far, I’ve said, “This is the greatest meal of my life,” about 10 times. From a giant charcuterie board at La Prosciutteria to an 18€ 5-course meal at Dal Mi Cocco to a sandwich that I had in a random “bar” (what the Italians call a bar and what Americans call a bar are very different) in Assisi, I have had so many picture-perfect meals that it would be impossible to choose one that is the best.
So now my goal has changed. Rather than find the best place to eat, I’m just going to try a new place as often as I can and go back to my favorites any time I can’t stop dreaming about them (Dal Mi Cocco here I come). Maybe when I get a little bit further in my Communicating Taste course I’ll be able to start reviewing restaurants regularly to help me pick which ones received the best objective ratings from me. But let’s be real: I would never give my favorite kebab place 5 stars, but its still the place I find myself visiting again and again and again.
What to See
Perugia is undeniably a beautiful city. From the ancient Etruscan walls that surround the city center to the ubiquitous stone arches to the stunning vista at the Pincetto Minimetrò stop, it’s hard to not be overwhelmed by all the options. And that’s not even including the museums, cathedrals, and art galleries interspersed throughout the city. For these things, Google is actually helpful, particularly TripAdvisor. Don’t be afraid to use virtual tools to help you figure out what to do, even if Italian websites are complicated, hard to translate sometimes, and not comprehensive. You’ll be able to fill in the gaps through exploring the city and asking locals where they like to go.
As for the beautiful city itself, the best way to see its beauty is to explore. Adopt the flâneur and flâneuse mindset by wandering the city without aim. You might discover a music conservatory, a cheap jewelry store, or even a theater you hadn’t heard of yet (I discovered all of these things just this morning). I recommend starting from a piazza or your home and taking a new route. From there, follow anything that leads you. If you catch the delicious scent of porchetta wafting through the streets, follow it. If you see a fashionable woman with a shopping bag overflowing with a new outfit, find where she came from. Or you can follow your heart. Let the streets guide you deeper into the city and further from the familiar until all of a sudden you find yourself on the other side of a monument you know quite well. Flâneuring, as my writing class has so lovingly coined, (or, more accurately, flânerie) is not only a great way to explore Perugia, but also super fun.
Where to Go
As a student living in Perugia, I have to find a certain kind of place that I totally forgot I would need: a place to study. Most of the time I work best in my apartment in silence, but even a recluse like me needs to get out into the city every once in a while to study, write, or read. Umbra students are fortunate enough to have a wonderful student lounge and library “on campus,” but those quarters are cramped and can sometimes get a little loud. An alternative is one of the many bars in the city that offer the perfect background ambiance. My favorite, and the site in which I am currently writing this, is Caffè Della Penna. It has free wifi, comfy chairs, delicious pastries, warm sandwiches, good music, and even drinks for those seeking a quick aperitivo.
But if you’re looking for somewhere more studious, Umbra students can use their student ID to enter the University of Perugia library. There is also a public library right next to the Pincetto Minimetrò stop where you can get a table with a view if you’re lucky. And once the weather is nice and the city of Perugia wakes back up, you can also visit any of the piazzas and sit quietly on the steps and read or write for a while. I am probably a little biased, but Piazza IV Novembre is the best place for getting some work done outside. There are plenty of steps to sit on, lots of ledges for a more formal resting place, the beautiful fountain, and enough of a crowd to let you get in some good people-watching whenever your studies get too tedious.
